Hiking to Refugio Frey in Bariloche – A Complete Guide

Hands down, one of the most popular day hikes around Bariloche is to Refugio Emilio Frey, or just Refugio Frey. This mountain hut is known as one of the most picturesque in the area, sitting on the shore of Laguna Tonchek at 1,700 m above sea level near Cerro Catedral, a popular ski area.

In this guide, we’ll list all the different hiking routes you can take to reach Refugio Frey, with a specific focus on the one starting at the base of Cerro Catedral. We’ll explain how to get to the trailhead, how to prepare for the hike, what to bring with you and what to expect from the trail itself.

If you’d like to see our experience hiking to Refugio Frey, then watch our Bariloche video, which we shared on our YouTube channel Kitti and Jon. For more videos from the country, check out our Argentina playlist.

About Refugio Emilio Frey

Refugio Emilio Frey is a picturesque mountain hut on the shore of Laguna Tonchek in Nahuel Huapi National Park in the Argentinian Lake District. The hut is named after Emilio Frey, who was an Argentine Geographer. He was the cofounder of Club Andino Bariloche, which was the first mountaineering club in Argentina. Refugio Frey opened in 1957 and, even though it’s been expanded since then, it retains its original construction elements.

Thanks to its close proximity to Bariloche and the multiple trail options that lead to the hut, it’s one of the most popular day hikes in the Argentine Lake District. In addition, Refugio Frey is also part of the hut-to-hut trail (Refugio Frey – Jacob – Laguna Negra), a popular multi-day trek amongst keen hikers.

Refugio Frey Hiking Route Options

Hiking up to Refugio Frey is popular because it can be accessed from a few different trails.

1. Via the Base of Cerro Catedral (Traditional Hiking Route)

• Distance: 9.5 km / 6 miles (one way)
• Trailhead: Villa Cerro Catedral Car Park
• Difficulty: Moderate to Hard

Also called the “Traditional Hiking Route”, this trail is 9.5 km (6 miles) one way. The trailhead is marked by a huge wooden sign saying ‘Frey’ on it, on the left side of the Villa Cerro Catedral Car Park. The path is easy to follow, with signs about every 2 km indicating how much further you have to go. It starts off relatively flat with a gradual incline before getting steeper the closer you get to the Refugio. It can take a good 3 to 4 hours to reach the hut via this trail.

2. Via Cerro Catedral Filo (Catedral Ridge Route)

• Distance: 5.7 km / 3.5 miles (one way)
• Trailhead: Punta Princesa
• Difficulty: Hard

The Catedral Ridge Route is another way to reach Refugio Frey that essentially starts from the Villa Cerro Catedral Car Park. However, instead of going on the path to the left, you will be taking the Amancay cable car and a chairlift up the mountain to get to the trailhead. The Amancay cable car takes you up to La Roca, from where there’s a regular chairlift to Punta Princesa. Then the trail will take you along the ridgeline and down to Laguna Schmoll before reaching Refugio Frey.

One of the downsides of this route is that the chairlift only runs in the high season, so you may have to hike further if it isn’t operating. Plus, you also have to account for the added cost of the cable car / chairlift which is currently $36,000 ARS for a single ride. For this reason, if you pick this route we suggest returning via the Traditional Route, which would make it a circular hike rather than an out-and-back one.

3. Via Lago Gutierrez

• Distance: 9.5 km / 6 miles (one way)
• Trailhead: Camping Lago Gutierrez
• Difficulty: Moderate to Hard

A third option is to start your hike from the Lago Gutierrez campsite. In terms of distance and difficulty, it’s very similar to the Traditional Route. In fact, the paths actually join together about half-way through. If you pick this route, you’ll also have the chance to do a slight detour to the Cascada de los Duendes waterfall and up to Lago Gutierrez viewpoint. (We visited these locations on a separate day).

However, the downside is that there’ll be slightly more elevation gain compared to the Traditional Route, because you start lower down. Plus, reaching the trailhead would require a hire car.

How to Get to the Refugio Frey Trailhead in Villa Cerro Catedral

By Private Vehicle

Rental Car. If you’re staying in Bariloche for a few days and are planning on doing a few road trips, such as Circuito Chico or the Route of the Seven Lakes, then we highly recommend renting a car to get around. With a rental car, you can also easily get to the trailhead from Bariloche as early as you want.

Uber or Taxi. If you don’t want to pay for a full day of car rental, consider getting either a taxi or Uber to Villa Cerro Catedral. Check the numbers for official taxis in Bariloche here.

Bear in mind that if you call an Uber from Villa Cerro Catedral you may need to wait around for a while because they often come from Bariloche. In addition, a one-way ride could easily cost around $25,000 ARS or more, so it’s worth doing some quick math to work out if it would actually be cheaper than hiring a car. We got the public bus to the trailhead then an Uber back, so that’s one way you could save.

By Public Bus

An easy and affordable way to reach the trailhead is by public bus. Bus 55 runs between Bariloche and Villa Cerro Catedral.

The first bus leaves around 7AM from the main bus terminal and gets to Catedral around 7:50AM. We got the bus from this bus stop and it arrived between 7:15-7:20AM. It dropped us off at the main car park for the chairlifts to Cerro Catedral (Parada Cerro Catedral). The bus back to Bariloche departs from the same spot every 2 hours. Check out the timetable on the Mi Bus website.

In order to use the bus you’ll need a travel card called SUBE. If you’re visiting the Argentine Lake District after spending a few days in Buenos Aires, then you may have already purchased one. However, you can also buy a new card at many kiosks in the city. What you need to remember is to load it with plenty of credit to cover your bus ride, as it will be more expensive than a traditional ticket. There was only one place in Catedral (Restaurante y Minimercado Shirdi) that did top-ups and it was still closed in the morning when we arrived and had already run out of daily credit by the afternoon. This meant that we had to take an Uber back to Bariloche.

The other downside of taking the bus is the frequency. The first bus doesn’t leave until 7AM, so you’ll be starting your hike around 8AM and be hiking back during the hottest part of the day. Plus, if you don’t time it right, you may have to wait around for 2 hours or call an Uber.

By Guided Hike

Lastly, if you want to hike to Refugio Frey with a guide, consider booking this guided tour. You can either do the Catedral Ridge Route or the Traditional Hiking Route. The former option starts after taking the cable car up to Punta Princesa, whereas the latter would start from the car park in Cerro Catedral.

Practical Information About the Refugio Frey Hike

Entry Fee and Hiking Registration

Although both the Argentine Government and Nahuel Huapi National Park‘s websites say that there’s an entry fee to the national park, in reality, none of the listed access areas are at the Refugio Frey trailhead. This meant that we could hike to the hut for free. However, please check the websites in case this changes in the future and plan accordingly.

What you do need to do is fill out a trekking registration form before you intend to hike the Refugio Frey trail. You only need to fill out one form per group, as it will ask for the details of any additional hiking companions.

Best Time to Hike Refugio Frey

Refugio Frey is generally open all year round unless there are extreme weather conditions. However, the best time to hike Refugio Frey is between December and March which is the summer season in Argentina. The end of spring and autumn could also be nice, especially with the fall foliage. We would only recommend hiking in the winter if you have plenty of mountaineering experience.

No matter what time of year you intend to do the hike in, we cannot emphasize enough to check the weather forecast before you set off. Conditions up in the mountains can be completely different than at the base, so it’s good to come prepared for anything, as we’ll discuss in the next section. You can check for any alerts (bad weather, high winds, fires, etc.) on the Nahuel Huapi National Park’s website, in addition to the mountain forecast for Refugio Frey.

What to Wear and Bring with You When Hiking to Refugio Frey

Clothing and Footwear. Wear season-appropriate clothing and footwear. When we did this hike at the end of December, it was on a very hot day, although it was still slightly cooler in the early morning. The temperatures are normally higher at the trailhead but it can get pretty cold at the Refugio. Therefore, make sure to wear layers so you can adjust to the conditions. You can wear either shorts or long trousers depending on what you feel more comfortable in. We still suggest taking a fleece and / or a rain jacket. In terms of footwear, try to wear hiking boots or shoes with good grip. We personally like wearing boots for their extra ankle support.

Food and Drinks. Have plenty of drinking water because you’ll be drinking a lot on the way up. At the refuge we could fill up our water bottles, which was lucky because we drank it all pretty fast on the way back due to the heat. Don’t forget to pack some snacks and a packed lunch to help re-fuel your body. You can actually pre-order food if you’re planning to stay at the refuge overnight, although this will come at a higher price. We normally drink some electrolytes or rehydration drinks before and after such a demanding hike.

Additional Items. Also, make sure to have enough SPF on you as the sun can be pretty strong. Take a hat and sunglasses for extra protection as well. The descent can be pretty hard on the knees, so you might want to use poles on the way down.

Don’t forget your SUBE card, some cash, your camera gear and an eSIM, so you have data that you can use to call an Uber if needed. Our personal favourite eSIM providers are Holafly, Airalo, and Sim Local.

Accommodations Near Refugio Frey

San Carlos de Bariloche. Having a base in Bariloche is probably the most popular option when it comes to accommodation. The city has everything you need including plenty of more affordable hotels and hostels, car rental offices and of course a ton of amenities. The trailhead is also easily accessible by different modes of transport such as bus, Uber or taxi.

Villa Cerro Catedral. If you want to be close to the trailhead, consider spending a night in Villa Cerro Catedral. Just bear in mind that the town is much smaller, so there won’t be as many options when it comes to lodging and restaurants.

Stay or Camp at Refugio Frey. There’s the option to either spend a night at Refugio Frey, or camp at the dedicated campground around it. This is perfect if you want to extend your hike to other huts, or just want to wake up at this stunning location before you hike back. In both cases, we highly recommend booking your spot as early as possible, because there are limited spaces available.

Refugio Frey via Base of Cerro Catedral – Hiking Route Description

First Section: Trailhead to Van Titter Creek

The first section of the trail is about 5 km long. It’s a dusty section with some tree roots and rocks covering the path, but the ascent is pretty gentle. We crossed quite a few bridges and had a lovely view of Lago Gutierrez on our left once we gained some elevation. The path was easy to follow and it also had some red and blue signs and a distance marker every 2 km.

Bear in mind that whilst it’s an easy section, on the way back it’ll feel like the longest 5 km of your life. Especially if you happen to be coming back in the hottest part of the day, as there is hardly any shade available.

Second Section: Van Titter Creek to Refugio Petricek

After about 5km we entered the forest and came across a fork in the path. This is where the Lago Gutierrez route meets up with the “Traditional Route”. Take the right-hand path, which ascends towards Van Titter Creek. Thankfully, the forest here provided us with some well needed shade. However, bear in mind that on a windy day (which is pretty common in Patagonia) these trees can feel a bit scary. There were a couple of signs warning us about falling branches.

The forest section will go on for a good 2-2.5 km and you’ll start to gain more elevation. Before we left the forest behind we came across Refugio Petricek. This mountain hut sits about 1,423 m above sea level, so we still had plenty more elevation to gain before reaching Refugio Frey. If it’s a calm day, then the hut is a great place to take a little rest before the final push.

Third Section: Refugio Petricek to Refugio Frey

Soon after passing Refugio Petricek, we left the forest behind and the trail opened up a bit more. We could enjoy clear views of the ridgeline on our right but were a bit more exposed to the elements. These last 2 km of the hike were also the steepest. There were a few switchbacks and the trail became more rocky. In the distance, we could just about see the top of the Refugio. Just before we got to it, we actually had to do a river crossing. There is a rope to help you across, although luckily the water level was quite low. Then, we hiked the last few meters through some boulders before finally reaching our destination.

Refugio Emilio Frey

As Refugio Frey came into view, we could immediately appreciate why it’s considered one of the most picturesque mountain huts. We loved its traditional look and its location, sitting on the shores of the lake surrounded by jagged peaks. We could easily imagine spending the night here watching the sunset, then waking up early for the sunrise!

Luckily, it wasn’t super busy up there, so we found a quiet spot around the lake and had our well-deserved packed lunch whilst admiring the views. We spent about an hour or so there taking it easy, before descending back to Villa Cerro Catedral. The first half of the descent was relatively quick, although we suggest taking it easy to avoid knee pain. Hiking poles can definitely come in handy here. The last 5 km was probably the worse part of the entire hike. It was about 30 degrees Celsius, and there was no shade along the flat, dusty trail the whole way back. Make sure to have plenty of water left for this section, especially in the summer months.

Final Thoughts on Hiking Refugio Frey

We can totally see why the Refugio Frey hike is a popular one. It’s a pretty doable route for most people, with many trails leading up to it. However, it’s also challenging enough that you’ll definitely feel a sense of accomplishment when reaching the mountain hut. Whilst the hike itself isn’t always the most interesting trail, we really enjoyed the lovely views we got of Lago Gutierrez and the surrounding mountains. The true reward is definitely Refugio Frey surrounded by jagged peaks. We can imagine that doing the hut-to-hut hike would be a great experience, as the trail carries on amongst these peaks.

Have you ever hiked up to Refugio Frey before? If not, would you add this hike to your Bariloche itinerary? Let us know in the comments below.