Valbona to Theth Hike – A Guide to Hiking the Valbona Pass in Albania

If you’re planning your amazing Albanian itinerary and enjoy the outdoors, then you cannot miss hiking across the Valbona Pass in the Albanian Alps. The Valbona to Theth hike is definitely up there with one of the most beautiful hikes in Europe.

Although it only takes one day to hike the trail, you’ll need at least three days to complete the entire loop. This requires a little bit of planning, but don’t worry, it’s not as complicated as it sounds. In this blog post we’ll answer every question you might have regarding this particular hike and by the end you’ll hopefully feel more prepared and ready to embark on an incredible journey through the Accursed Mountains.

If you’d like to see the hike, then make sure to watch our dedicated Valbona Pass video on our YouTube channel. For more Albania videos, check out our Albania Series.

About the Accursed Mountains aka the Albanian Alps

The Accursed Mountains, or Albanian Alps, stretch more than 60 km (40 mi) across northern Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro. They are the southernmost part of the Dinaric Alps and have 19 peaks that are higher than 2,400m (7874 ft).

How to Plan your Valbona to Theth Hike

To help you plan out your Valbona to Theth hike, you can find detailed answers below to the most common questions we had beforehand. Hopefully by the end you’ll have a better idea of which direction you want to complete the trail in, how to get to Valbona or Theth, what to do with your extra luggage, what to pack, where to sleep and how much the whole Valbona Pass hike will cost you.

Which Way to Do the Valbona Pass Hike (Valbona to Theth or Theth to Valbona)?

You’ve probably figured out already that you can complete the Valbona Pass hike in two ways: either walking from Theth to Valbona or vice versa. There’s a bit of a debate online as to which way is better. At the end of the day you’ll be hiking along the same path. You’ll have uphill, downhill and flat sections no matter which way you do it. We personally decided to hike from Valbona to Theth for the following reasons:

• Getting to Valbona is an adventure on its own. You’ll be spending most of the day getting to Valbona via a van – ferry – van combo. Whereas you can just organise a minivan ride back from Theth to Shkoder. It just seemed easier to get the more complicated travel day out of the way first.
• To reach the official trailhead in Valbona, you’ll have to hike at least an hour through a riverbed. This is easy in the morning and you can even arrange a ride to entirely skip it if you want. However, it would be very monotonous and exposed to the heat in the afternoon if you were coming from Theth. On the contrary, the descent to Theth is through a forest which will give some well needed shade in the afternoon.
• Based on our initial research, which was also confirmed after our visit, there’s just a lot more to do in Theth. So, finishing in Theth means that if you want to you can book an extra night or so there and see and hike to other places in the vicinity.

Now, if you’re fit enough, you can actually set off super early in the morning and hike from Theth to Valbona and then back to Theth. Or, if you don’t fancy hiking the entire way due to time constraints or for other reasons, then you can just hike up to the highest point at 1759m and then back again. In both these cases we recommend staying in Theth.

Where to Stay on the Valbona to Theth Hike?

In both Valbona and Theth you can stay in guesthouses or B&Bs. In Valbona, you can expect to pay at least 30 to 40 EUR for a night for a room in the high season. Click here to check out guesthouses in Valbona.

In Theth, you can pay less than 20EUR per night for a dormitory room. Guesthouses with private rooms are again between 30 and 40 EUR on average. Click here to check out some guesthouses in Theth.

It’s worth noting that both Valbona and Theth are spread out. Valbona just seemed like a long stretch of road with houses along it, so you want to book something that’s a bit closer to the trailhead. Theth is also spread out, so you may want to find something that’s closer to the ‘centre’.

We noticed that both places have been undergoing major construction, so we’re pretty sure that more and more accommodation opportunities will pop up in the upcoming years.

Of course, there are also campsites where you can stay for the night.

What to Wear and What to Pack for the Hike?

If you’re just planning your Albania trip, then we recommend thinking about what to pack for the Valbona to Theth hike. You ideally want to carry a daypack that fits everything you need for a few nights. In terms of a hiking outfit, we recommend packing shorts, especially if you’re completing the hike over the summer months. Even if the weather is cooler you’ll warm up going uphill. If you get caught up in a rain shower your legs will dry quicker in shorts. Dress in layers and maybe pack a lightweight rain jacket.

In terms of footwear, it’s important to wear supportive shoes. Hiking boots or shoes are perfect, although we saw some people doing the hike in normal trainers. As long as it has a good grip you’ll be fine. We recommend packing some flip-flops that you can change into after your hike for around the guesthouses.

Obviously, make sure to pack everything you need for a few nights such as pyjamas, toiletries and so on. If you’re planning on going on the Blue Eye hike in Theth then pack some swimwear too.

You may or may not be asked for proof of identity at the guesthouse. Regardless, we recommend having your ID card or passport with you, perhaps in a waterproof case.

In terms of electronics, make sure to have your phone and camera with you. Although you’ll be able to charge your phone at your accommodation, we recommend taking a portable charger just in case.

For entertainment, we also packed our kindles and some playing cards.

In terms of accessories for the hike, we recommend taking a reusable water bottle, sun-cream, hat or cap and sunglasses for protection. Lastly, but most importantly, have enough cash on you to pay for food and accommodation. They normally accept both local currency and Euros.

All in all, try to pack as light as you can because you’ll have to carry everything with you on this hike!

What to Do with Your Extra Backpacks and Luggage?

Even if you’re only visiting Albania for a week or two, chances are you’ll have a bigger luggage with you. We’d been on the road for about 9 months at the time, backpacking through Mexico and South America before heading to Montenegro, Albania then Turkey. So, it’s safe to say that we had everything but the kitchen sink with us.

Luckily you don’t need to carry your big backpack or roll your wheelie suitcase across the Valbona Pass. That would be a sight though!

The best option is to leave any extra bags at the hotel or hostel you stayed in in Skhoder. Most places know that you’re possibly there to do the Valbona to Theth hike, so other than helping you to arrange your trip, they are also happy to store your luggage for a few nights. At most places you’ll have to pay a small amount per night but it’s still better than carrying all your belongings.

How to Get to Valbona from Shkoder?

Getting to Valbona from Shkoder might seem complicated at first, but don’t worry, it won’t be. The town is located about 200km north-east of Shkoder. You can see on the map that you can actually drive to Valbona if you want to. However, if you zoom in a bit more, you’ll also see that the route is super windy and would take a good 5 to 6 hours.

However, to make things a bit easier, more scenic and cause less motion sickness, you can reach Valbona by a van – ferry – van combo. On your travel day a minivan will pick you up around 6:30AM and drive you to Komani Ferry Port. The drive takes a good 1.5 hours. Then you’ll board a ferry around 9AM which will cruise you along the Drin River for about 2.5 hours. The route is very calm and scenic, so it’s definitely a memorable travel day. You’ll disembark at Fierza Ferry Stop around 11:30AM where another minivan will wait for you. Another hour or so drive later and you’ll arrive to Valbona.

Pretty much any hotel or hostel will arrange this transfer for you, so you just have to tell them when you want to go and they will arrange a seat for you. Make sure to have all three tickets with you; 2 for the mini vans and one for the ferry.

The two van rides cost 800 LEK (7 EUR) each and the ferry ride is 1000 LEK (8.75 EUR).

How to Get to Theth from Shkoder?

If you want to go to Theth from Shkoder you can arrange a minivan ride which costs around 1700 LEK (15 EUR) one way. It takes about 1.5 to 2 hours to reach Theth. The route is a bit windy but very scenic as you climb higher and higher.

You’ll have to do this route on your way back from Theth, if you’re doing the hike from Valbona. The minivans will normally collect you from the ‘centre’ of Theth if your accommodation is a bit far out of town.

Where to Eat on the Valbona to Theth Hike?

Let’s talk about food. If you’re leaving from Shkoder to Valbona early in the morning, you’ll likely have to skip your hotel breakfast. We’ve heard that some places may offer an earlier one, so just check that with your accommodation. We do recommend buying enough food in Shkoder to get you through the majority of the day until dinner time. There won’t be many food options along the way apart from the ferry’s tiny café.

The majority of the guesthouses will have breakfast included in the price. We don’t recommend booking something that doesn’t offer breakfast since there aren’t many restaurants, especially in Valbona. You can normally get an earlier breakfast, or ask the host if you can take it away instead if you want to leave early.

Many guesthouses also offer to prep you lunch for your hiking day for an additional cost. If you don’t want that, then there are two cafes along the trail. Since they are remote they can be pricey, so bear that in mind. We recommend buying some healthy snacks in Shkoder that’ll keep you going on your hike.

Since there aren’t many restaurant options in Valbona, many hosts will offer dinner, again for an additional cost. We recommend having dinner at your host’s, since they will prepare you some really amazing, traditional Albanian food.

In Theth, you can again book something with breakfast included. Some guesthouses may offer dinner, but ours didn’t. Don’t worry though because there are slightly more food options in the town.

Useful Information About the Valbona to Theth Hike

Length of the Valbona Pass Hike

The Valbona to Theth hike is a point to point hike. From Rrogam to Theth it is about 9.5 km (6 miles) long, and from the centre of Valbona it’s about 12 to 15 km (7.5 – 9 miles). As we mentioned in the accommodation section, depending on where your guesthouse is located you may have to walk a bit extra just to reach the trail head. Although, we read that some hosts might offer you a ride to the trailhead for an additional cost. Once you’re in Theth, you might also have to walk through the entire town to reach your accommodation.

Depending on your speed and how many breaks you’re taking this route could take between 7 to 10 hours to complete. If you’re a fast and experienced hiker, you can complete it in about 5 hours.

For reference, we set off just after 8AM and were at the highest point around 12PM. We got to our guesthouse in Theth at around 3PM. We did stop a lot since we were filming our adventures and of course wanted to enjoy the scenery as much as we could. So, we were generally a bit slower.

Depending on the time of year you’re completing this hike at, we recommend starting earlier to avoid the heat.

Level of Difficulty

It is known to be a moderate hike and requires some level of fitness to complete. The highest point along the trail is Valbona Pass at 1,795 m (5,889 ft). For reference, Valbona is located at 995m (3,264 ft) above sea level and Theth is around 745m (2,444 ft) up. Luckily, you won’t have to worry about altitude at this height. Some might find the uphill more challenging than the downhill or vice versa.

The terrain is a bit rough but not horrible. The path is generally wide, although there’s a section just before and after you’ve reached the highest point which is quite narrow. We found the sketchiest part to be the very last bit as you’re descending into Theth because of loose gravel. After hiking all day, your legs will be pretty tired and that makes this last part even worse. Take it slow!

Navigating the trail is pretty easy and you’ll see red-and-white painted flag markers appearing every so often to reassure you. You can always download an offline map such as maps.me to follow your progress.

Best Time to Hike

It’s worth noting when you’re planning your Albania itinerary that the hiking season starts around May and lasts up until October. The pass could be closed in May due to weather so try to plan your visit from mid-June onward. You’ve probably guessed that the busiest months are going to be July and August due to the summer holidays. For reference, we did this hike at the end of August and it didn’t feel crazy busy but there were definitely people around. (At least we didn’t have to queue at the highest point like we did many times when hiking in the UK).

Facilities Along the Hike

Cafes. There are three cafes along the Valbona to Theth hiking trail where you can grab some refreshments and snacks. The first one is Bar & Restaurant Emanueli which is located pretty soon after you’ve started the hike. The other one is Simoni Café located closer to the start of the trailhead. The last one is located closer to Theth and is called Bar Café. Since they are pretty remote expect the prices to be a bit more inflated. There are many fresh water sources along the route where you can refill your reusable water bottle.

Toilets. The only two places with toilets are the two cafes along the route. You’ll need to find a private spot anywhere else along the trail.

Phone reception. An important thing to mention is phone reception. We bought local SIM cards upon arriving to Albania, which we recommend doing. Unfortunately, you won’t have much signal along the trail or even in Valbona or Theth. You might have it here or there but not much and definitely not strong. You’ll most likely have WIFI at your guesthouse accommodation, although our Valbona one didn’t have strong signal at all. Whilst the trail is easy to follow even without a map, you can always download the maps.me app to follow your route. Note that Google Maps doesn’t show the hiking route and even AllTrails is a bit spotty.

The Valbona to Theth Hiking Trail

Since we hiked the Valbona Pass from Valbona to Theth, this is the way we’re going to describe it below.

1. Valbona to Simoni Café

Depending on where you’re staying in Valbona, you’ll have to walk about an hour along the road before you reach the official trailhead in Rrogam. Once you leave the paved road, you’ll basically be walking through the rocky riverbed for at least 2.5km (1.5 miles). This part of the path is pretty flat and easy. Some people ask for a lift to the trailhead to skip this section, so cars may drive past you.

The start of the official trail will be marked and the sign should show that the distance to Theth is 9.5km. It’s a very tiny trail heading straight up and you’ll walk past some small farms. The view will slowly get better and better as you hike further up. You’ll pass the first café called Bar & Restaurant Emanueli. The path is going to be steep after that and you’ll gain elevation quickly. In about an hour and half you should reach Simoni Café. You can decide to have a quick break here or just carry on hiking.

2. Simoni Café to Valbona Pass

This next section of the hike will be just as steep, slowly zig-zagging up to Valbona Pass. It’s tough but the views along this section are worth sweating for. There will be some short flat sections before another steep one. Make sure to take your time and stop for regular breaks to catch your breath but also to enjoy the views.

Just when you think you cannot hike any higher, the path will even out, giving your legs a well deserved break. This is the last section before you reach Valbona Pass. The trail gets quite narrow here so be careful. You’ll see a sign indicating that you’re basically at the top from where it’s straight downhill. To reach the very top, you’ll have to go up a bit further first then come back down. This is definitely one of the best viewpoints as you’ll be able to see both valleys from here.

3. Valbona Pass to Bar Café

From Valbona Pass you’ll basically be descending the entire way to Theth. There are a lot of lookout points just after the pass, so we recommend stopping somewhere there for lunch and enjoying the breath-taking views of the Albanian Alps.

The path is steep and can be slippery so proceed carefully. You’ll soon leave the views behind and be walking through a lovely forest. Whilst the views will be concealed by the trees, it’ll feel great to have some shade as at this point you’ll probably be walking during the hottest part of the day. Just before you reach the next café, the path will open up again.

4. Bar Café to Theth

Just after the café you’ll reach a beautiful clearing marked as the ‘Window on the mountains’ on Google Maps. It’s a fantastic viewpoint where, if you haven’t felt like you’re in the Swiss Alps yet, you definitely will at this point.

Now note that the last section of the trail was super steep and sketchy. It was hard to keep steady even with supportive hiking boots on as our legs were already pretty tired at this point. Make sure to take it easy on this part as you don’t want to twist an ankle just before the finish line. Also note that depending on where you’re staying in Theth, you may have to walk a bit further to reach your accommodation.

Final Thoughts on the Valbona to Theth Hike

The fact that the Albanian Alps are still quite unknown to many travellers made our hiking experience much more unique. Whilst we completed the hike in the high season, the number of people on the trail was hardly anything compared to some well-known trails in the UK such as Snowdon or Ben Nevis where you’ll likely have to queue to reach the very top. We also felt like we were somewhere in the Swiss Alps or the Dolomites in Italy but for a fraction of the price.

Apart from the natural beauty of this area, the warm hospitality of our hosts and their amazing home-made food made this entire trip one of our favourite memories from Albania. I mean how often do you help your host figure out the settings on their new washer/dryer using Google Translate?

Have you ever been to the Albanian Alps before or hiked this exact trail? If not, would you add it to your hiking bucket list? Let me know in the comments below.