Best Things to Do and See in Xela (Quetzaltenango) in Guatemala

If you’re currently planning your visit to Guatemala, and are searching for destinations slightly off the ‘gringo trail’, then you’re in the right place. In this guide we’ll show you some of the best things to do and see in Quetzaltenango, more commonly known as Xela, in Guatemala. It’s the second largest city in the country but is way less visited by tourists compared with other places.

When we found out that Xela was generally less touristy, as well as being surrounded by incredible volcanoes to climb, we didn’t hesitate in adding the city to our itinerary. We ended up spending a week and a half in Xela and loved the city way more than we thought we would. Whilst we will admit that Xela doesn’t have as many tourist attractions as other, more popular, destinations in the country, we still found plenty to keep us busy.

If you’d also like to see what we got up to in the city, then definitely watch our dedicated Xela video on our YouTube channel. For more Guatemala videos, make sure to watch our Guatemala series.

Introducing Xela (Quetzaltenango)

Xela is situated at 2,330 m (7,640 ft) above sea level in the Western Highlands of Guatemala. However, bear in mind that you won’t find the name ‘Xela’ on the map. This is because the official name of the city is Quetzaltenango, which means ‘place of the quetzal bird’. Once we arrived in the country though, we quickly noticed that people prefer to call it by its Mayan name, Xelajú, or the shorter version, Xela, which means ‘under ten mountains’.

About 95% of the population of the city are indigenous Maya. We loved seeing that most residents, old and young, still wear their colourful, traditional outfits. In many places we’ve visited within Latin America, we mainly saw the older generation wearing their traditional attire. So Xela really felt like a city frozen in time.

Although it’s the second biggest city in the country, not many tourists actually make it there during their visit. Many travellers we talked to had never even heard of Xela before. Despite the lack of tourists when compared to Lake Atitlan or Antigua, Xela offers plenty for its visitors to see and experience including stunning landscapes, majestic volcanoes, a diverse culture, rich history and beautiful architecture. If you want to visit a truly authentic city in Guatemala, learn some Spanish and hike some volcanoes, then you need to add Xela to your itinerary.

How to Spend a Day in Xela (Quetzaltenango)

1. Relax at Parque Centro América

You can’t visit a Latin American city without going for a wander around its main plaza. The beating heart of Xela is Parque Centro América, a leafy plaza where most residents meet and socialise day or night. This is also where most events take place, like Semana Santa (Holy Week) during Easter, which we were fortunate enough to celebrate there.

There are some beautiful buildings and structures surrounding the square such as the façade of the Church of the Holy Spirit (Catedral del Espiritu Santo) which was built in 1532. Next to it is the Municipal Palace which was built in 1881. There’s also the House of Culture which is home to the Museum of Art and Natural History of Xela. Another interesting structure is Pasaje Enríquez, a now rather crumbling arcade dating back to 1900.

In the centre of the plaza is a round, colonnaded structure dedicated to the composer Rafael Álvarez Ovalle. It reminded us of a similar one we saw in Guadalajara’s Centro Historico in Mexico. There’s also a pillar dedicated to president Justo Rufino Barrios.

In addition, there’s also bars and cafes as well as many local vendors selling delicious treats.

2. Learn Spanish in Xela

If you’re backpacking through Mexico and Central America, then you might want to learn some Spanish so you can interact with locals without constantly relying on Google Translate.

We didn’t realise just how many Spanish schools there were in Xela (and in Guatemala) until we started wandering its streets. Whilst we’ve seen many of them during our travels through Mexico and South America, we definitely noticed a higher concentration of language schools in Guatemala. Apparently, it’s easier to understand Guatemalan Spanish because of the fact that Maya dialects are many people’s first language. Therefore, they tend to speak slower Spanish and pronounce words more clearly.

Whilst we were a bit short on time to commit to a class, it’s something that we would love to do if we ever return to Xela. Which is quite likely considering that we’re eager to do a few more volcano hikes in the area and eat more Xelapan pastries (see our next point).

3. Grab Some Pastries from Xelapan

You cannot visit Xela without treating yourself to some delicious pastries from Xelapan. They offer a huge variety of sweet pastries, snacks, breads, and cakes. The bakery has countless branches across the city, and we never walked far before running into one. Even though you’ll find many other cafes and bakeries in the city, Xelapan is without doubt the most popular one.

We can wholeheartedly say that Xelapan’s pastries are the absolute best ones we’ve tried in Latin America so far. You may not believe us, and for the record we were a bit skeptical at first too. However, many of Xelapan’s products tasted just like the pastries we love from Europe. Don’t just take our word for it; the locals love Xelapan just as much as we did.

We were also pleasantly surprised by just how affordable it was compared to some very overpriced bakeries we visited in Lake Atitlan and Antigua.

4. Sign Up for a Weaving Class at Trama Textiles

Weaving has been an important part of Maya tradition for centuries. We learnt that each town actually has its own traditional dress (traje) with patterns unique to that town. People still wear their traje every day, especially in less touristy places like Xela, which is so amazing to see.

Today across Guatemala there are many women-led backstrap loom weaver cooperatives such as Trama Textiles. They were formed in 1988 after the Civil War when many Maya women lost their male family members and had to provide for themselves and their remaining families. Trama Textiles gave these women purpose, as well as a way to support their children thanks to the fair wages they received for their beautiful work. Today, the cooperative works directly with 100 women from 17 communities across the Western Highlands.

You can join one of their weaving classes, where they teach you how to make different items. Check out their official website for more information, or just visit the store and inquire about the ongoing classes and offers.

Even if you don’t want to take a class, you can still visit to have a chat with the lovely ladies there and purchase the amazing handmade items from the shop.

5. Enjoy the City Views from Cerro El Baúl Park

One of our favourite things to do in Xela was to visit Cerro El Baúl Park. This park is a large forested area located on a hill to the east of the historic centre. You can take an easy hike or a quick taxi / Uber ride to get to the top, where you can enjoy some lovely views of Xela.

Behind the viewpoint is a large area to wander around. During the weekends the park is filled with local families enjoying this outdoor space. Apart from the view, there is a huge statue of Tecun Uman, the Maya hero. There’s also a crazy slide enjoyed by kids and adults alike. You need a piece of cardboard to slide down though, so make sure to take a piece if you want to have a go.

How to get to Cerro El Baúl Park? We took an Uber from the city centre and asked to be dropped off here. From this point, we took the hiking trail all the way to the top. You can of course ask the driver to take you all the way up to the car park. However, if you’re planning on completing a few volcano hikes around Xela, then Cerro El Baúl is a great acclimatisation hike.

It’s worth noting though that unless you see a taxi at the top or ask the driver to wait for you, you may not be able to get a ride back into the city centre. We had to walk back to the main road before we could flag down a taxi. For this reason, we recommend visiting Cerro El Baúl Park at the weekend, when most residents will be up there with their families too.

6. Visit Xela’s Colourful Cemetery (Cementerio El Calvario)

We’re aware that people don’t normally visit cemeteries when they travel somewhere new, and recommending one does feel a little odd. However, just like with the Day of the Dead celebrations in Mexico, the afterlife in Guatemalan culture is also significant. This is definitely noticeable in the large and colourful tombstones you’ll see across the country.

It was without doubt one of the most colourful cemeteries we’ve visited so far. Not to mention that Volcan Santa Maria towers over the cemetery, adding a beautiful background to this already unique place.

Before our visit we read about the grave of Vanushka, a gypsy woman who apparently died of a broken heart because she couldn’t be with her lover. Apparently, ever since someone with a broken heart was reunited with their loved one after paying a visit to Vanushka’s grave, many people have been leaving messages there in the hope that they’ll get back with their other half. You’ll be able to spot her grave easily as it says Vanushka on it and looks pretty different to the surrounding ones.

Note. It’s a public cemetery where people come to pay respect to their departed family members, so please be respectful too.

7. Appreciate the Streets and Architecture of Xela

We were pretty surprised to see that Xela has a huge mix of architectural styles that we’d never really seen anywhere else in Latin America. Below we’ve listed a few landmarks that you may also want to check out during your visit.

The Municipal Theatre is one of the most iconic buildings in the city, located a few blocks to the north of the main plaza. It was built in 1895, and has a Neoclassical façade with statues in front of it.

San Nicolas Church (Iglesia San Nicolas) is a 20th century church built in a mock-Gothic style. It’s located a few blocks to the north of the Municipal Theatre.

The Minerva Temple was built in 1901, as a monument to wisdom and learning, by dictator Estrada Cabrera. It’s located right next to the bus station and market, so it’s worth stopping by if you’re wandering around that area already.

Calvario Church (Iglesia el Calvario) is a beautiful yellow church located right next to the colourful Calvario Cemetery. It was built about four centuries ago on a small rise, to avoid the recurring flooding in the city. It’s worth checking out after you’ve walked around the cemetery.

The street art along 19^th Avenida was something we noticed after walking back from the main bus station one day. If you’re in the area it’s worth checking out, but don’t expect a crazy street art scene in Xela like you might find in places such as Cartagena or Comuna 13 in Medellin, Colombia.

Puente de los Chocoyos, or ‘Parakeet Bridge’, is a historic landmark located a few blocks from the main plaza. Although the bridge doesn’t cross a gap or river, it does have a somewhat interesting history that dates back to 1883. It was built over a street that often got flooded, although there is a legend associated with it too involving two lovers.

8. Browse the Markets of Xela

If you’re a regular reader, then you already know that we love browsing local markets as well as going on challenging hikes. Markets are one of the things we absolutely love about Latin America and, as you would expect, there are plenty of markets in Xela too.

Unlike some other markets we visited in Guatemala, such as in Chichicastenango, Xela’s markets aren’t catered for tourists. They’re just your every day markets where residents go to get their essentials. This is why we loved walking around them because they felt even more authentic.

Note. These markets can get pretty crowded, so make sure to watch out for pickpockets.

Below are some of the markets we managed to visit during our stay:

• Mercado Municipal is an easily accessible market since it’s situated in the vicinity of the main plaza. If you’re staying in Xela for a little bit longer, then it’s a great place to buy some fresh produce or try some street food.
• Minerva Market is located right next to the main bus stop and is probably the biggest market in Xela. As we’ve come to expect, we could’ve bought anything here, from fresh produce to clothes and home essentials.
• Mercado La Democracia is located near San Nicolas Church, so you can easily combine your visit. Similar to other markets in Central America, you can find fresh produce, street food and everything in between here. Again, it’s definitely not an artesian, touristy market but instead gives you a taste of the every day lives of the residents of Xela.

9. Walk Through Minerva Bus Terminal / Ride on a Chicken Bus

Just like cemeteries, a main bus terminal probably wouldn’t make it onto most tourists’ top 10 lists when visiting a new place. However, if Guatemala is your first Central American country, then riding a camioneta, aka a ‘chicken bus’, is a must if you really want to experience the local way of travelling. As you may already know we love to travel like the locals, so we had to go on a few camioneta rides in Guatemala.

In case you’re wondering about the name; no, you won’t really be sharing a bus with chickens. Camioneta’s are old US school buses that have been customised with colourful paintings and repurposed into public buses.

If you decide to arrive to Xela on a camioneta, then the main bus terminal will be the first place that you see in the city. It’s definitely a hectic and noisy place, but don’t be intimidated by all the shouting. The conductors are there to help fill up the bus and to direct you to the right one. We found them to be very helpful every time we needed a ride somewhere, so make sure to ask them to show you to the right bus.

How to Get to Xela (Quetzaltenango)

Most travellers arrive to Xela either from Guatemala City, Antigua, Lake Atitlan or, in some cases, from San Cristobal de las Casas in Mexico. We actually spent a week in San Cristobal de las Casas on a previous trip to Mexico, so if you’re planning to head there at some point make sure to read our guide on things to do in San Cristobal and/ or some great day trips from San Cristobal.

How to get to Xela from Guatemala City?

If you’ve just landed in Guatemala, then the first stop on your itinerary might be Xela. From Guatemala City you can easily reach Xela by public bus. We read that there are two companies people use, Alamo and Xelabus. We decided to go with the latter as it seemed like they had slightly more modern buses. For this reason the bus ticket was a little more expensive though.

Note that Xelabus buses depart from a depot located here. There’s a shopping mall right next door where we could grab a snack and use the facilities before boarding. It took us about 4 hours to reach Xela without stopping but we did have a toilet on the bus.

How to Get to Xela from Antigua or Lake Atitlan?

If you’re heading to Xela from the popular city of Antigua or Lake Atitlan you have the choice to take either a chicken bus or tourist shuttle. If you’re up for an adventure, are on a tighter budget or don’t have a huge amount of luggage with you, definitely take the chicken bus. However, if you don’t mind spending a bit extra for a little more comfort, or are not too confident travelling on multiple chicken buses, opt for a shared shuttle instead.

Note that there won’t be a direct camioneta to Xela, so you’ll need to change a few times. From Panajachel on Lake Atitlan there’s usually two changes, the first at Solola and the second at Los Encuentros. From Antigua you would also need to change at Chimaltenango and then Los Encuentros.

You can arrange your shared shuttle at any tour agency in person or online. Some of the companies that we used and which had good reviews are Monte Verde Tours and GuateGo.

Final Thoughts on Things to Do and See in Xela (Quetzaltenango)

We had an incredible time in Xela. The fact that the city wasn’t packed with tourist attractions was probably the reason why we fell in love with it. Our favourite activity was just hanging out around the main plaza and wandering through its hectic markets. The locals in Xela were extremely helpful and willing to have a chat with us, which made us feel even more welcome.

Have you ever been to Xela before? If so, how long did you stay for and what did you get up to during your visit? If not, would you add Xela to your Guatemala itinerary? Let us know in the comments below.