8 Things to Do in Theth, Albania

In this blog post you can read about the best things to do in Theth, one of the most beautiful villages in Albania. You may have already seen some photos of Theth online with a lone stone church surrounded by dramatic peaks and lush green grass, with livestock grazing in the surrounding fields. Although this scene could easily be seen somewhere in Switzerland, this village is actually tucked away in the Accursed Mountains in northern Albania.

If you’ve been planning to complete the iconic Valbona Pass hike, reading this post will help you to decide which way to do the trail and how long you would ideally need to spend in Theth to get the most out of your trip.

If you’d like to see what we got up to in Theth then make sure to watch our Valbona Pass hiking video on our YouTube channel. For more Albania videos, check out our Albania Series.

Introducing Theth, Albania

The traditional village of Theth (or Thethi) is located deep in the heart of the Albanian Alps in Theth National Park. The national park itself is an area of outstanding natural beauty and offers many amazing hiking opportunities with the most famous one being the Valbona Pass hike.

According to some, around 350 years ago people migrated to Theth to avoid conversion to Islam. The village was first mentioned in 1485 and comprised of only a handful of houses. It became more of a tourist attraction after 1890. Apparently, after the visit of the British traveller Edith Durham, more people wanted to come and see what was described by her as the most beautiful village she’d ever seen.

Theth struggled to sustain itself through tourism between 1945 and 1996, and due to the civil war in 1997. However, in 2011, the village became part of the Peaks of the Balkan Project which works to make parts of Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro a destination for mountain tourism. The project works with the local population to revitalize village life in the Shala Valley whilst also creating local employment and encouraging sustainable activities such as hiking, climbing and cycling. Needless to say that it’s been attracting tourists from all over the world.

Up until 2021, the road leading to Theth wasn’t even paved. If you drop down to street view along the SH21 on Google Maps, you can still see how it looked before since the images are from 2016. The difference is crazy when compared to the fantastic mountain road we travelled along from Theth to Shkoder. At the time of our visit Theth still felt remote and a bit like a hidden gem, although we definitely noticed a huge amount of construction going on.

How to Get to Theth, Albania

Theth is located about 80km to the north-east of Shkoder, so the easiest way to reach the village is to get to Shkoder first. You can get there by hire car or by public transport. There are regular buses going to Shkoder from Tirana or even from abroad such as in Kotor, Montenegro.

By Hire Car. As of 2021 you can reach Theth with any hire car. Prior to that you could only get to this paradise with a 4×4 vehicle since the road wasn’t paved. The road from Shkoder to Theth is quite windy but equally scenic. The drive is at least 2 hours from Shkoder. We would still recommend hiring a slightly better car as the roads in Theth aren’t the best. Hiring a car for the duration of your stay in Albania will also allow you to visit some places that aren’t as easy to get to by other means.

By Minibus. You can also arrange a shared minibus ride to Theth from Shkoder. It costs around 15 EUR each one way and they normally pick you up and drop you off at your accommodation or a central location in Theth or Shkoder.

On Foot. This is possibly the first time we’ve been able to say that one way to reach Theth is on foot. Many people hike to Theth from Valbona, so it’s another option for you if you enjoy hiking. Read this detailed guide on the Valbona Pass hike if you want to know more.

Where to Stay in Theth and How Long to Stay for

You can stay in a guesthouse with either private or shared rooms in Theth. There are also a few campsites if you’re planning on camping in the area. We suggest booking somewhere with breakfast included because Albanian breakfasts are amazing and very filling. Trying fresh local food was one of our favourite things to do in Theth apart from the incredible scenery.

Most people stay maybe a night in Theth, especially if they have just completed the Valbona to Theth hike. This is understandable, especially if you have a limited time in the country and wish to see other places. If that’s the case, you can still see the highlights of the village after your hike and perhaps hike to Grunas Waterfall super early the next morning before your transport back to Shkoder.

We generally recommend staying at least 2 nights to get the most out of your visit. There’s a lot of beautiful things to do in Theth and even just the hike to the Blue Eye would take up most of a day. Not to mention if you’d also like to hike some parts of the Valbona Pass.

Best Time to Visit Theth

It’s good to know that the road to Theth can be closed during the winter months due to heavy snowfall. The Valbona Pass is also closed in the winter months. So, it’s best to plan a trip to this mountain paradise somewhere between May and October.

We read that even in May and at the start of June the hiking trails can be closed due to snow and bad weather. So, do your research and check the latest weather related updates before you book your trip in the shoulder season.

Best Things to Do in Theth, Albania

1. Visit the Church of Theth

This picture perfect church is located in the heart of the village surrounded by mountains. It is definitely a spot you don’t want to miss when visiting Theth. The church was built in 1892 and due to the early inhabitants of Theth being Roman Catholic it was the first building built in the village. In 1917 Father Shtjefën Gjeçovi transformed the church into a school and opened the first Albanian language school in this area.

During the communist era, the church couldn’t operate as a religious facility, but luckily it wasn’t completely destroyed like many other religious buildings across the country. It actually functioned as a hospital during that time. After the fall of the communist regime the families in Theth helped to finance the reconstruction of the church.

2. Hike Up to Valbona Pass or All the Way to Valbona

Many people visit Theth to complete the Valbona Pass hike, one of the most scenic hikes in the country. It is a 12-15km (7.5-9 miles) long hike taking you through forests, meadows, narrow and steep paths with dramatic views of the Accursed Mountains everywhere you look. It normally takes a whole day (8 to 10 hours) to reach the next town, Valbona, where most people would spend the night before their onward journey back to Shkoder. You can also do the hike from Valbona to Theth and reward yourself with a few nights in Theth enjoying the slow village life.

In case you wish to only stay in Theth for a few nights, you can just spend one day hiking up to Valbona Pass (1,795 m) and then back to the village. If you’re very short on time, you can just hike up to Bar Café, a lovely place for afternoon tea and cake with some stunning views of the Albanian Alps.

3. Hike to the Blue Eye of Theth

During our two weeks in Albania, we noticed that the country basically has a pair of Blue Eyes. One is located just outside of Theth and the other one is to the east of Saranda all the way to the south of the country. The most popular one is probably the one to the south, but the one in Theth is on a lot of people’s itineraries too. In fact, many would choose to stay an extra night in Theth after their Valbona Pass hike, just so that they could hike to the Blue Eye the next day.

A Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër) is basically a very deep spring water pool in a karst formation. Apparently, nobody actually knows how deep the one in Saranda is even though divers have tried to dive down to the underground stream. We read that it’s quite a dangerous activity, since they have to dive towards the stream whilst it’s pushing them back. It’s also pretty cold! Nonetheless, thanks to the depth and the vegetation we can enjoy the stunning hues of turquoise and azure of these phenomena which basically look like eyes.

The one in Theth actually has a small waterfall that just adds to its beauty. You can reach it from Theth on foot if you follow this route. It takes over 3 hours just to hike there, plus you have to come back the same way too. You can download Maps.me so you can follow the trail. If you have a hire car, then you can just drive most of the way to this car park.

Top Tip – If you leave early enough, you can hike to Theth Waterfall (Grunas Waterfall) first then carry on to the Blue Eye.

4. Hike to Grunas Waterfall (Theth Waterfall)

Another great hike you can do whilst in Theth is to Grunas Waterfall (Theth Waterfall). It only takes less than an hour to reach the waterfall from the village by following this route. The hike itself is relatively easy and flat. Only the very last section is a bit steep as you head up to the waterfall. We recommend heading there earlier because it’s a popular spot.

With a drop of 25m (82 ft) the beautiful waterfall has been declared a natural monument since 2002. There’s a small pool in front of the fall where you can cool off after your hike. You can also just sit at one of the rocks around it and enjoy the views and perhaps a well-deserved snack. Just make sure you don’t leave any of your rubbish behind. We definitely saw some around the rocks, so don’t add to the problem. If you can, collect some and leave the place better than you found it.

You can either walk back the same way you came or walk across to the lower path and hike back along the river. This lower trail will eventually merge with the red bridge called Ura mbi përrua on the map, which you would have crossed initially on your way there. The lower trail is also the one you should take if you’re heading to the Blue Eye.

Since the Theth Waterfall hike won’t take up too much of your day, you can definitely combine this activity with others within the village. If you leave relatively early in the morning, you can always visit Grunas Waterfall first then carry on hiking to the Blue Eye.

5. Find the Narrowest Part of Grunas Canyon

Grunas Canyon is located to the south of Theth National Park. It is a 2 km long, 60 m deep canyon. Its width can be as wide as 30-40m and as narrow as just 2-3m. If you’re hiking to either Grunas Waterfall or the Blue Eye then you should definitely find the narrowest part of the canyon. It is located about here on the map.

You’ll know that you’re in the right spot if you come across a slightly hidden path leading down to a short bridge that crosses the canyon.

6. Visit the Blood Feud Tower

The Blood Feud Tower was definitely one of the most interesting places we visited in Theth. This 400 year old stone tower is actually one of the few remaining ‘lock-in towers’ in Albania. You’re probably wondering what a lock-in tower is, aren’t you?

Also known as the Tower of Nikoll Koçeku, this lock-in tower was used to imprison men who violated the Kanun law. Now, what’s the Kanun law you might as? Attributed to Lekë Dukagjini, the Kanun law is basically a set of rules in Northern Albania that define what it means to be an honourable person. Part of the code is the right to avenge one killing with another.

Blood feud in Albania is called Gjakmarrja which is essentially a series of family-based revenge killings that can last for generations. These lock-in towers were used to protect and defend killers from blood feuds, while other members of the family tried to find an alternative solution. What was shocking to learn is that even to this day some families still live in fear because of blood feuds.

You can visit the tower for a small fee of 150 Lek (1.3 EUR) per person.

7. Visit the Ethnographic Museum of Dukagjini

You can also visit the Ethnographic Museum of Dukagjini in Theth which is a traditional house built on a rock. It showcases traditions and the way people lived in the past.

The house was turned into a museum in the 1960s.

8. Enjoy Some Delicious Albanian Food

We absolutely loved Albanian cuisine, which is the perfect blend of Mediterranean flavours. The food is generally influenced by Greece, Turkey and Italy, a mix that is hard not to enjoy.

The cuisine can be divided into three main regions. In the north, the food has a mix of rural, coastal and mountainous origins. People use a lot of ingredients that they can easily grow such as potatoes, carrots, cabbage, kidney beans, onions, garlic, and walnuts. The most popular ingredient is ground corn which is used for making bread but also various sweet dishes.

Final Thoughts on Things to Do in Theth, Albania

Theth was definitely one of the most picturesque places we visited in Albania. Initially we weren’t sure if we needed an extra night in the village, but we’re so glad that we decided to book 2 nights. In fact, looking back now, we wish we’d booked an extra one. We really enjoyed the slow mountain lifestyle, the warm hospitality and of course all the delicious meals we had during our stay.

Have you been to Theth or the Albanian Alps before? If so, how much of the area did you manage to explore? Let us know in the comments below.